Chef Ricky Moore Shines at Gantt Center Culinary Event
Charlotte, June 10, 2024
At its best, dining should be one of life’s richest experiences – a chance to explore dazzling flavors and diverse food textures, all while basking in the warmth and laughter of good family and friends. For several dozen people on Saturday, the Harvey B. Gantt Center offered just such an experience — al fresco style.
Out on the lawn at Johnson C. Smith University (JCSU), The Gantt held the second in its three-part series called Stephen Satterfield: Destination Carolinas. The Gantt describes the events as “a series of unique, multi-course, farm-to-table culinary experiences,” each hosted by food writer and TV personality Stephen Satterfield, best known for his Netflix docu-series “High on the Hog: How African American Cuisine Transformed America.”
The evening’s featured chef was Ricky Moore, whose Durham-based Saltbox Seafood Joint helped earn him a 2022 James Beard Award for Best Chef: Southeast. Bonita Buford, the Gantt Center’s president and CEO, said the culinary series, one of many events marking the center’s 50th anniversary, is meant to spotlight The Gantt’s diverse offerings.
“We wanted to remind people that we’re a multidisciplinary organization,” she told QCity Metro. “Yes, we’ve got stellar exhibitions. We’ve got a musical series this year. We have a culinary series this year, as well as dance.”
Highlight of the Evening
For the second event in its culinary series, Buford said, the center wanted to host an outdoor dining experience, especially on Charlotte’s west side, so it partnered with JCSU. “And they welcomed us to their campus,” she said, with the university’s historic Biddle Hall towering as the event’s backdrop. “And so I think this turned out to be a beautiful evening.”
As for the meal, Chef Moore and his staff prepared an experience lightly spiced in the food traditions of Black Americans: shredded carrot salad (tossed in pickled golden raisins, smoked pecans, with coconut vinaigrette), pan-seared grouper (with moqueca sauce and topped with crispy cornbread crumbs), suya spiced confit duck leg (with tomato and tamarind glaze), skillet-braised eggplant (with summer squash and zucchini escovitch), plus family-style sides of peas & okra and lemon butter rice. For dessert, he offered a peach malva cake (with soft whipped lime cream, blackberry citrus compote and cold lustered white chocolate pearls) served with watermelon coconut sorbet.
Conversation with Chef Ricky Moore
After the meal, I spoke with Chef Moore about his love for cooking, the Black food traditions that have shaped his career, and the challenges of building a successful restaurant brand.
What inspires your cooking?
My personal experience has inspired my cooking. The things I’ve done in the past, the things I think about now, and the things I’ll think about in the future. Cooking is an art – it’s ever-evolving. It continues to change, and we need to always be prepared for what’s next. But never forget tradition. There are no new flavors. There are no new cooking methods. You’ve got to master those, and then you cook in the present. Constantly keep yourself open up to explore. That’s what I do.
Prior to being a cook, I was going to be an artist. I think creatively in every aspect, whether it be cooking, whether it be how I engage a guest, [or} when I think about an ingredient.
What advice would you give to a young Black chef, an aspiring chef, who wants to be the next James Beard winner?
I would tell her or him that it’s important that you decide that you are ready to take the journey. You have to have stamina. You have to have discipline. You have to find the joy, even in the crisis, as you move through the profession.
How has winning the James Beard Award changed your career?
To be honest with you, after being in the business for 30 years, has it changed my career? Not necessarily. I don’t mean it in a negative context. For me … I’ve always worked to the level of being recognized as a James Beard candidate. You know what I mean? Even though I never got it issued to me early on, I worked that way.
Are you still innovating?
Absolutely. Innovating from a business perspective now. I like to talk about me as a craft person, a cook, innovating food, plates, dishes. Now, I’m [also] innovating in terms of business.
Are you in the kitchen every day?
Yes. I have to be. I have to be. There’s a disconnect if the chef or the lead cook or whatever title – you got to be there.
Conclusion
Chef Ricky Moore’s culinary skills and dedication to his craft were on full display at the Gantt Center’s 50th-anniversary celebration. His passion for cooking, commitment to tradition, and drive for innovation have shaped his successful career as a chef and business owner. The evening’s guests were treated to a delightful dining experience that showcased the best of Black American cuisine.
